On your next visit to Leeds, as well as discovering the
wonderful sites the city has to offer, why not plan a day trip to the nearby historic
and picturesque city of York? Located just a 40 minute drive or train journey
away, no Yorkshire visit is complete without being immersed in the sights and
sounds of the county’s namesake. Explore the city’s fascinating Viking history
at the Jorvik Centre (horned helmets optional), wander the medieval passages of
The Shambles (watch your head) and experience the colourful York nightlife
(don’t forget your feather boa and salsa shoes) on your next stay at 42 The
Calls Leeds.
Morning: Trains,
Castles and Shambles
Since there’s so much to do during a day in York, getting to
the city as early as possible is advisable. If you travel by train, a perfect
starting point is the National Railway Museum, which is just next door. This
maze of trains big and small, old and new, can be fascinating for all the
family – the experience is hands-on and visitors can get up close and personal with
the inside of the carriages, climbing aboard to take a look around.
Best of all, this attraction is completely free of charge –
unless you buy a cup of Yorkshire tea and a sticky bun from the café, of course.
Speaking of charges, if you do choose to drive, parking in York can be pricey –
at least £2 per hour – and, like everything in the city, parking spaces are
rather ‘quaint’, not leaving a lot of room to manoeuvre larger cars. So it’s worth
doing your research about train prices vs. parking costs before you plan your
trip.
Heading to the centre (much of which is pedestrianised)
through the pretty Museum Gardens, you’ll learn quickly that no matter where
you stand in the city, the impressive, gothic presence of York Minster is never
far away. This dominant cornerstone in the city’s heritage is a captivating building
and has held visitors spellbound for over a millennia. Whether you just fancy a
stroll around the exterior – which itself can take around 20 minutes due to the
great size and wealth of details to look at – or you pay to go inside, visitors
are sure to be awed by the Anglo-Saxon structure.
Tickets cost £15 for adults and £5 for children if you want
admission to the whole attraction – minster and tower; however, if you just
want entrance to the minster, tickets are £10 for adults and children go free
with a paying adult. As well as the minster and tower, guests have access to
the crypt, chapter house and gift shop. Getting yourselves on to a guided tour
(included in the ticket cost) which run every hour, is a fascinating way of
seeing the church in more depth. Offering the opportunity to discover the stories
behind the gargoyle faces, famous burials and hidden treasures found in the
minster.
As you exit York Minster, you might find you have not quite satisfied
your thirst for castles yet – if so, head to the Castle Museum and Clifford’sTower, just a short walk away. Built on a steep hill overlooking the River Ouse
and surrounding area, this Norman keep is another famous landmark of the city
and hard to miss. It’s been the centre of violence, massacre, imprisonment,
torture and plunder over the centuries, but now derelict, it’s a location for
visitors to explore. You can climb the hill and ascend to the highest
battlements for a breath-taking view over York.
On your way back into the centre, take a stroll along the
famous Shambles (entering the quaint passage via the brilliantly named
Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate) for a true slice of Medieval England. Once upon a time,
all meat markets in the land were known as ‘Shambles’ – these rather gruesome
places saw venders preparing animals in the street and throwing their blood and
guts into a runnel down the centre of the road (this is clearly where our
modern-day interpretation of ‘shambles’ – to mean a mess – comes from.)
Nowadays, the quaint, tourist-friendly lane is rather different…
Famed for its historic, old-world charm, the road winds
between two larger roads, Pavement and Colliergate, and boasts many tearooms,
lunch spots, sweet shops and souvenir stalls along the way. Pretty little
wooden boards hang over shop fronts and ancient painted signs inform visitors
that these independent establishments have been here a very long time, passed
down through the generations. A trip to York isn’t complete without an amble
along this row, and picking up a memento – even if it’s a typically touristy
piece – is essential.
Afternoon: Teapots
and Vikings
A trip to North Yorkshire isn’t complete without a stop-off
at one of the world-famous Betty’s tearooms. Whilst the flagship shop is in
Harrogate and there are others in Northallerton, Ilkley and Harlow Carr, York
boasts two cafes – Betty’s Café Tea Rooms and Little Betty’s – both with a
bakers and confectioners attached. Whether it’s coffee and cake, Champagne
afternoon tea or a full-blown three-course meal, everything at Betty’s is exquisitely
cooked, locally sourced and fairly priced. This is a special outing, like
stepping back in time into an upper crust Edwardian salon, so it must be
savoured – allow yourselves a couple of hours to indulge in your Betty’s
experience fully.
Don’t be put off by the inevitable queue you’ll find
emerging from Betty’s doors – this is common any time after 11am, on any given
day of the week. Betty’s popularity is internationally recognised but you’ll be
encouraged by how quickly the line goes down and menus are promptly handed to
waiting guests, giving you time to choose your dishes and duly start salivating.
If you have time and are possibly celebrating an occasion, the afternoon tea
with a glass of Champagne might be the way to go… exquisite sandwiches,
home-made scones with strawberry preserve and clotted cream finished with a
selection of miniature cakes will certainly set you up for an afternoon of
further exploring in the city.
Alternatively their hot dishes, such as the bacon and
raclette rosti or haddock, salmon and prawn gratin are scrumptious. If you run
out of space for pudding, grab a sweet treat for later from the bakery section
– we recommend a Yorkshire ‘Fat Rascal’, Florentine or Yorkshire Curd Tart (but
anything you buy is sure to be delicious.) For a slightly less busy, quainter
experience but with all of the charm, head for Little Betty’s which serves the
exact menu of ‘big’ Betty’s. It’s on Stonegate – a fantastic shopping street,
packed with boutique shops, chic galleries and traditional pubs.
After the gastronomic delights of Betty’s, you’ll be needing
some light exercise to help you digest...and we suggest a stroll over to one of
the city’s leading museums. Sadly, because of the 2015 floods, the Jorvik Centre
has had to close for refurbishment until early 2017, so if you’re planning your
visit after this, then you must pay this amazing site a visit. Until then, the
artefacts have been set up in temporary exhibitions all around the city – at
the moment, they’re being housed at York Theatre Royal, Coppergate (next to the
museum) and from 1st August, at the Undercroft in York Minster.
These exhibitions are split into different topics so take your pick or do all
three: Life & Death, Home & Abroad and Treasured & Beliefs. This
collection is dedicated to bringing to life the fascinating history of the
Vikings who settled in this area over a millennia ago. This isn’t just a
venture for kids, although the centre is certainly geared up for younger
visitors. You’ll also discover preserved weapons, skeletons, jewellery, tools
and even a longboat replica.
Evening: Yorkshire
Pud, Cocktails and Salsa
After an afternoon charging around the city, or maybe even
hiring boats on the river (follow this link for more information), you might
actually be starting to feel a little peckish again. Whether you’re a Yorkshire
pudding aficionado or you’ve never tried it (and may think it’s strange to eat
something called ‘pudding’ with a main meal), York is the perfect place to
sample some of the best in the land. Head to Nineteen for an upmarket
traditional Sunday lunch, Royal Oak where roast beef with all the trimmings and
home-made Old Peculiar gravy can be enjoyed for £10.95, or the most haunted pub
in York – The Golden Fleece – where their Yorkshire pud is hailed as ‘the best
ever.’ Whilst you’re in this pub, munching on your giant Yorkshire pud filled
with savoury goodness, enjoy the historic surroundings – there’s been a pub on
this site since at least 1503.
There is a ghost tour around York that lasts an hour and a
half, ending at this spot… so if you still want to work up an appetite before
dinner, book yourself a space. Alternatively, the Golden Fleece also boasts
many different kinds of local beers and ale for a night-cap. Other city centre
restaurants worth checking out are Rustique, The Park or Oscars for delicious
food from a range of cultural influences.
Once you’ve eaten, it’s time to hit some bars and see what
you make of the lively York night-life. There are endless choices to make it a
night to remember with an estimated 365 bars and pubs open in the area – enough
to visit a different one every single day of the year! An excellent starting
place (though it’s so good, it may be your only
place) is The Evil Eye Lounge. Reportedly Johnny Depp’s favourite haunt when
he’s in town, if you’re thinking of Tim Burton-style quirk and darkness, you’re
not far off. This is a tiki-meets-gothic themed bar with potent cocktails, reclining
chairs, and excellent Thai food. It’s a little wild behind the bar – and not
unusual to see the staff ringing a gong every time a punter gives them change
and downing a swift shot together. Opt for the Caribbean Punch, Mai Tai or Jungle
Martini for an exotic wake-up… but don’t try too many of them – they pack a
punch.
From Evil Eye, you have loads of choice for a second venue.
Nearby is Kennedy’s bar for chic cocktails and great mo-town hits for a dance.
While down the road from there you’ll find Bora Bora, a retro Polynesian style
cocktail café (think South Pacific) with an outdoor heated area and fresh
cocktails that come in at under a fiver. For beers of the world, head to Pivni
– a cosy cubbyhole, built in the beamed loft of an old Tudor building. There
isn’t a craft beer, whether it’s keg, bottle or cask, that they don’t serve or
can’t tell you about. From blond German ales to fruity Belgian beers, dark
robust brews to rich ruby bottles, there is something to suit every palate
under this roof. For those in search of a good dancefloor before the last train
home to Leeds (in reality, they run throughout the night) your final stop has
to be Bobo Lobo.
This South and Central American-themed venue screams all
things Latino and ‘island paradise’ from the moment you enter. From the
friendly Argentinian bar staff, to the voodoo-style cocktails – Zombie,
Witchdoctor and Captain’s Grog – this place rocks a salsa vibe. It’s a long
thin space with limited seating (though it does go up countless storeys – you
may need oxygen masks by the time you reach the top) but there’s sure to be a
corner you and your group can settle into. At the very back of the bar is the piece de resistance – the dance floor. It’s
compact and, whilst plenty of well-known R&B, hip-hop and soul is played
here, the best moments come when the DJ mixes it up with Middle Eastern or
South American pop – this is when the bar feels less Yorkshire, more Buenos
Aires!
You can even join in with the Brazilian locals when they get up in pairs
to salsa (you’re bound to be offered someone’s hand) or to do their impromptu
line dancing – there’s nothing cowboy about this, it’s completely their own
form and easy to pick up. This is the perfect way to round off an exciting –
and exhausting day in York. Back in Leeds, 42 The Calls is just a 10 minute
walk from Leeds station – alternatively taxis aren’t pricey. Shake off your
dancing shoes and fall into bed after a day that’s ticked every box…
